Tuesday, 23 June 2015

Ox Heart Jerky, Oxtail and Tamarind Soup, Sweetbreads, Mushroom Risotto, Spicy Ostrich Liver, Smoked Bacon, Onions, Peaches Roasted With Amaretti Biscuits, Sanguinacilly

Saturday 6th June 2015

You're Offal, But I Like You!

So here we are again, fresh from Simon's tour-de-70's offal extravaganza, next up we find ourselves the guests of returning favourite Dan and new Chef Pete, in leafy Manchester wealth-ghetto Bowdon. Dan, keen to impress upon us that his recent Kitchen refit really did need a back up kitchen installing at the same time led the charge more than ably assisted by Pete.  Numbers were swelled by the offspring of 2 offaliates, and yes, like policeman, they look younger every day. As before Tom got the tidings out early through his excellent blog here.  As resident Offal photographer Joby had politely declined this one, usual standards of photography have not been maintained and so for half decent pictorial interpretation head over to Toms place.  The last time we were here, Dan fed us raw Ox heart, so it was only going to get better, and my it did...


Personalised OC logo's included.  We are going to merchandise the life out of this one...

Venue: Dan's

Member's present: Simon, Jason, Dan, Pete, Son of Pete, Dom, Tom, Steve, Son of Steve

1. Ox Heart Jerky.

This was stunning - 2 flavours made overnight in the Aga.  Get it here and also here.
Trim any fat away from a whole beef heart (5-6lbs) and slice into ¼” strips as thinly as possible.   Marinate half of the slices in a ½ cup red wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon cumin, 1 ½ teaspoons cayenne, 1 tablespoon salt, 2 teaspoons black pepper for at least twelve hours. Marinate the other half of the slices in 1/3 cup Thai chili sriracha, 2 ½ tbsp fish sauce, 3 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp demarera sugar, 1 ½ tbsp lemon juice for at least twelve hours. Dry on paper towels. Leave to dry in bottom oven of Aga overnight with door ajar.

The Offal Club accepts no responsibility for how middle-class that last instruction came across as.

2.  Oxtail and Tamarind Soup.

A real eye opener - hot and sour but with Oxtails.  From the Guardian hereA fresh take on the old-fashioned broth, with sharp notes of lemongrass, lime, tamarind, galangal and chilli. Serves 4.

3 tbsp sunflower oil
1.2kg oxtail, trimmed and cut into pieces 
1.3 litre water or light chicken stock 
A large pinch of salt
A large pinch of sugar
4-6 tbsp tamarind water
140g oyster mushrooms, ends trimmed, torn in half
4cm piece of galangal, sliced
2-3 stalks of lemongrass, bruised and cut into 3
4-5 lime leaves
2 plum tomatoes, cut in half
2-3 bird’s-eye chillies 
2-3 tbsp fish sauce, to taste
2-3 lime juice, to taste
2 tbsp coriander, chopped

1 Heat the oil in a large casserole. Add the oxtail pieces and fry over a high heat until browned all over – you may have to do this in batches. Remove and set aside on a plate.

2 Pour away any excess oil from the pan, put the oxtail back in the pan and cover with the water or stock, salt, sugar and tamarind water. Bring to the boil then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Cover for 2–2 ½ hours or until soft but not falling off the bone. Skim the fat off the surface every so often.

3 Add the remaining ingredients except the lime juice and coriander. Cook for a further 20-25 minutes. Before serving add the lime juice and coriander.

3.  Sweetbreads.  Mushroom Risotto.

Pancreas, not thymus, lambs.  First time for OC, previously only having done Veal Pancreas, but now I'm just name-dropping...Thanks BBC!

Note – ingredients doubled up on all these measures. A selection of different mushroom types (shiitake etc) used instead of morels, which are impossible to get hold of!

For the risotto 
 knob of butter
 3 shallots, finely chopped
 500g/1lb 2oz carnaroli risotto rice
 1.5litres/2½ pints hot vegetable stock
 3 tsp finely chopped thyme
 2 tbsp mascarpone
 3 tbsp grated parmesan
 125g/4½oz cold butter, diced
 cabernet sauvignon vinegar, to taste
For the mushroom stock
 olive oil, for frying
 1kg/2lb 4oz button mushrooms
 150g/5½oz dried ceps (porcini mushrooms)
 100g/3½oz mushroom bouillon
 1.75 litres/3 pints veal stock
 1.75 litres/3 pints white chicken stock
For the morels
 20 morel mushrooms
 2 tbsp minced shallot
 4 tsp white wine
 200ml/7fl oz chicken stock 
For the garnish
 parmesan shavings
 wild rocket
For the sweetbreads
 240g/9oz lambs sweetbreads 
 salt and pepper
 olive oil, for frying
 knob of butter

Preparation method

1. For the risotto, heat the butter in a frying pan. Gently fry the shallots until softened. Add the rice and stir to coat in the butter and shallots. Cook until the rice is translucent.

2. Add the hot stock and thyme and cook for seven minutes. Spoon the risotto onto a baking tray and set aside to cool.

3. For the mushroom stock, heat the olive oil in a large heavy-based pan. Add the button mushrooms and fry until golden-brown.

4. Add the dried ceps, mushroom bouillon and stock. Bring to the boil, and continue to cook over a high heat until the volume of liquid has reduced by half. Strain the mushrooms, set aside and return the liquid to the pan. Continue to cook over a high heat until the volume of liquid has reduced by half again. Remove from the heat and reserve for later. 

5. For the morels, trim the white rim around the base of the morels, then soak in warm water to remove any sand that may be inside the mushrooms. Drain.

6. Heat a little olive oil a pan set over high heat, and fry the morels with the minced shallot until golden-brown. Deglaze the pan with the white wine and cover with a lid. Cook until the wine has evaporated, then add the chicken stock and cook with a lid on until the stock has evaporated and the mushrooms are glazed. Remove from the heat and reserve for later.

7. For the sweetbreads, using a sharp knife remove the outer skin/membrane from the sweetbreads. Season with salt and pepper.

8. Heat a little oil and a knob of butter in a pan set over high heat. When the butter is foaming, add the sweetbreads and fry until golden-brown and crisp on the outside and the juices run clear (not milky) when a knife is inserted into the thickest part. Remove from the pan and reserve for later.

9. To finish the risotto, heat a large pan over a medium heat and add 400g/14oz of the cooked and chilled risotto rice. Pour in 360ml/12fl oz of the mushroom stock and cook until the rice is al dente, then remove from the heat and add the mascarpone, grated parmesan and the diced cold butter. Keep stirring until all the ingredients are combined and hot. 

10. Add a few drops of cabernet sauvignon vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the risotto into four serving bowls and garnish with the sweetbreads, morels, parmesan shavings and rocket. Drizzle any juice left in the morel pan over the risotto as this is packed with flavour.

4. Spicy Ostrich Liver. Smoked Bacon. Onions

Minimum order 5 kilo's.  Nuff said.  Possibly one of the nicest liver dishes I've tasted.  This one was cooked in the second kitchen.  Because we could.  Can be found here.  Turmeric mash, chef's own.  Damn fine mash.

5. Peaches Roasted With Amaretti Biscuits.  Sanguinacilly

So it turns out you can rock up to an abattoir in Cheshire with an old milk bottle and come away with pigs blood.  Who knew? This one knocked Simon's previous dried blood affair into a cocked hat.  Only made a little less appetising by finding out that Dan's daughter had to sieve out the blood clots.  Sanguinacilly from The Odd Bits by Jennifer McLagan.  Peaches courtesy of Anna del Conte.

 3/4 Cup sugar
 1/3 Cup packed alkalized 
(Dutch-processed) cocoa
 2 Tablespoon cornflour
 1/2 Teaspoon ground ginger
 Pinch of fine sea salt
 1 Cup whole milk 
 1/2 Cup pork blood, prepared (see page 217) 
 Finely grated zest of 1 orange 
 3 1/2 Ounce candied fruit, finely diced (optional)


Step 1: 

Place the sugar in a bowl, then sift in the cocoa and cornflour. Add the ginger and salt, then gradually whisk in the milk until the mixture is fairly smooth. Pour in the blood and whisk to combine.

Step 2:

Pour the mixture—which will be a crimson color—into a saucepan and place over medium heat. Stir constantly with a spatula to make sure the mixture doesn’t stick to the sides of the pan. Continue to stir until the mixture thickens and approaches a boil. The color will change from burgundy to dark chocolate and will become shiny and smooth. It will look like melted chocolate. Remove the pan from the heat.

Step 3:

Stir in the orange zest and candied fruit, if using. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir it again to distribute the fruit. Press a piece of plastic wrap on the surface to prevent a skin forming, cool, and refrigerate. Serve in small dishes with whipped cream.

Quotes of the Night:

We need to be clear on the glands

People on the Internet will be favouriting this tweet before you've even tasted it

Tonight we dine like kings!

I don't want to detract from your culinary skills but the gold cutlery helps

Next up: Barbeq-offal at Doms (allegedly)

1 comment:

howie martinez said...

Stunning. My tastes buds are sobbing having missed out on this :(